by Nai Sen Yang Israel
Peranakan food in Singapore is another ethnic group adding to the vast array of food that can be found in Singapore but what makes Peranakan food stand out on its own and what is so unique about them? There are indeed many key points that make them unique such as the sambal Belachan from the Nyonyas.
Peranakan food in Singapore is another ethnic group adding to the vast array of food that can be found in Singapore but what makes Peranakan food stand out on its own and what is so unique about them? There are indeed many key points that make them unique such as the sambal Belachan from the Nyonyas.
PERANAKAN HERITAGE
In the early 19th century, Chinese businessman travelled to various ports that were located in the south of the Straits of Malacca and the Malay Archipelago. The Peranakans did their trade in Chinese silk, porcelain and other goods in exchange for Asian spices.
As a result, many of the Chinese businessmen stayed back in Malay states and the British colonies of the straits settlement (present day Penang and Melaka in Malaysia, and Singapore) and in parts of Thailand and Indonesia. The men married the women in these places and they had their own descendants which took over their businesses.
As the saying goes, ‘where one lives, one eats’, the Peranakan cuisine is diverse just like any other ethnic food culture. “They never leave their fish alone” is one of the comments made by a Nyonya cookbook. The elaborate treatment placed in dressing up the fish dish is one reason why fish is of such importance to the Peranakans.
PREPARING SEAFOOD
Ways to cook up a fish would always be through the traditional method of steaming and oiling but, the Peranakans would love to think otherwise - they found it too boring and unexciting. The various methods which they use to “dress” it up are to smother the fish in thick rich gravies and stuffing them in ground root and herb mixtures. It can go well with the “Rempah”, “Sambal” and “Asam” too.
Peranakans are very particular with the freshness of their food. They are aware of the climate and freshness of these meats and fishes and that it will decline if it is not handled properly. Therefore, by using the spices and herbs to flavour the meats and fishes, the freshness of the product becomes unimportant which is wrong in this aspect.
What is the distinguish trademark about Peranakan cooking? Sambal Belachan – made up of shrimps and chillies. Shrimps, the key ingredient in the Sambal Belachan are what make it a must-have in the Peranakan cuisine, along with chillies. Sambal Belachan is the cornerstone of Nyonya cookery as the fiery and aromatic smell of it enhances every dish when accompanied.
CONCLUSION
It is common that Peranakans place such detailed emphasis on the food that they consume because they believe in savouring the best, as preparing Peranakan cuisine can be time consuming.
(David Y.H. Wu, Chee Beng Tan, 2001, Changing Chinese Food Ways in Asia, Chinese University Press)
(James A, 2006, Malaysia Brunei & Singapore, New Holland Publishers)
(Tan Su Lyn, 2003, Malaysia & Singapore, Lonely Planet)
(Cecilia T, 1983, The Penang Nyonya Cookbook, Marshall Cavendish Cuisine, Singapore)
(Charles de, Mark L, Pauline S, 2003, Rough Guide to Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, Rough Guides, England)
(Alan D, Tom J, 2006, the Oxford Companion to Food, Oxford University Press, United Kingdom)
(Julie W, 2003, Nyonya Flavours: a complete guide to Penang Straits Chinese Cuisine, Star Publication, India)
(Tan Gek Suan, 2004, Gateway to Peranakan food culture, Asiapac Books Pte Ltd, Singapore)
FEATURED PROFILE
Madam Ong Giok Lee, 81, was at the doorstep to receive the guest. She directed everyone towards the kitchen and the dishes were already prepared. It was a heart warming sight as Madam Lee got her children and nephew to dine together. She wanted everyone to feel at home without feeling uncomfortable.
Dinner was prepared with a few simple dishes including Satay Ayam Redang, Asam fish and Sambal Timun. The sight of these dishes prepared looks simple but it requires some time to prepare.
Before tucking in, Madam Lee said, “ If you had informed me earlier when you guys are coming down, I would prepared a lot more dishes for everyone as preparing these dishes takes time to get the ingredients and I’m so old already. Come during the New Year and you have yourself a feast.”
Madam Lee mentioned that various spices are used in Peranakan cooking to enhance the flavour of the dishes. For example, lemon grass, onions, died chillies and Langus (blue ginger).
Madam Lee uses stir frying cooking method to get her dishes done most of the time; Steaming is not frequently used by her and surprisingly, she seldom uses Belachan in her dishes.
As time progresses on, traditional methods of preparing spices are not used so often now. Madam Lee uses the blender to get it done and it provides convenience for her. The traditional mortar and pestle method is not being used by her now as it is very time consuming.
You might be surprised that Madam Lee doesn’t use Belachan in her dishes as in our previous article, where the discussion that Belachan is a very important factor to the Peranakans because Belachan fully exploit the taste of the dishes.
It all boils down to one’s preferences as Madam Lee does not like the smell of Belachan as it has a strong aroma where she finds it too overwhelming for her. Madam Lee is a creative Peranakan, she changes some of the ingredients used to make the Belachan so as to attain a taste that suits her preferences.
Like any other Peranakans, recipes are being passed down from generations. Madam Lee learns new recipes just by looking how other prepares the dishes and trying it out. She has a gift of a special talent, as described by her daughter, that she is able to grasp hold of the recipe and made it her own, just by watching television.
Lastly, bringing across the point that fish is of importance to the Peranakan culture back then as compared to now. Madam Lee supported the statement by saying that it has to depend on the family’s background. Fishes were not cheap those days for them and those who are wealthier would have the privilege to consume fishes.
As for the poor, they had to go for something cheap as an alternative unlike now, where everyone can afford it. Preferences of the family have a part to play too. If it doesn’t suit their taste buds, it wouldn’t be served that often.
As for Peranakan food, it still remains purely traditional and as for Madam Lee’s case, she is sure that infusing of Singaporean flavour was never done in her years of cooking. It has only to do with her innovation and modification of food to suit her own preference and that is all to it.
FEATURED DISH
FEATURED DISH
OTAK-OTAK
Otak-otak, of Malay and Nyonya origins, is a blend of raw fish, chopped onions, coconut milk, herbs and spices bound together with egg. The puree is wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled over an open charcoal fire and served usually as an accompaniment to a meal of nasi lemak or white rice.
There are different forms of otak-otak originating from different regions. Nonya otak-otak, with Peranakan origins, from the northern Malaysian state of Penang, is steamed as a cake in Pandan leaf.
The biggest problem here is that one of the key ingredients is not easily obtained here in Singapore. It makes and breaks away the essential flavour of the Otak Otak if you chose to do away with it.
Daun Kaduk, also known as wild betel leaves adds texture and aroma that is essential to dishes such as Otak Otak and other various Peranakan dishes. Without its inclusion, the taste would be different and not simply enjoy the authentic taste of the Otak Otak. Although Daun Kaduk has a pungent aroma to it, the pungent aroma makes these dishes unique in taste and smell. To sum it all up, it is a very important ingredient that cannot be missing from Otak Otak.
Moving on, choosing the type of meat isn’t such a hassle as compared to sourcing out Duan Kaduk . Fish meats that can be use are Red snapper fillet which would be the most desirable, or you can try out Spanish mackerel or just any white fish fillet.
Grilling method is used by Singaporeans when preparing the Otak Otak, it uses banana and coconut leaves and grilled over charcoal fire. As compared to the Penang style of preparing Otak Otak, it is still wrapped in banana leave but instead of grilling it, the Otak Otak is steamed.
